My Pocket list of saved articles has been going through a workout lately. So here is one big Italy News Round-Up. I’ve done about 12 of these things over the life of this blog (and now 13 – XIII). But I will probably end up doing more.
For more links to Italy travel, art, culture, and history in the news, see my Italofile Facebook page or Twitter.
Dante Turns 750 [The New Yorker]
This year marks the 750th birthday of Dante Alighieri. For the New Yorker, Professor John Kleiner talks about what Dante means to Italians and about the more than 100 events that are planned for this occasion, including the “selfie con Dante” campaign with cardboard cutouts in Florence.
Uffizi Gallery Exhibition in Former Mobster’s Mansion [Hyperallergic]
In a moving, nonviolent act of revenge, a mayor in Campania and the Uffizi Gallery have teamed up to turn a mafia don’s confiscated home into a temporary art gallery. “The Light Wins Over the Shadow” will honor the memory of Peppe Diana, a priest who was shot by the Camorra in 1994, by displaying a number of chiaroscuro works from the Uffizi at the Casal di Principe.
Construction Workers in Bologna Uncover Ancient Roman Road [Repubblica]
It makes sense that the 1st Century AD Roman road Via Emilia was lying a few meters under the current roads in Bologna, the capital of Emilia-Romagna. But workers plan to cover it back up “for another 2,000 years” after they finish work on the Via Rizzoli and Via Ugo Bassi. Take a look at the road in the video from ETV (h/t Italy Explained). (Click here if you can’t see the embedded video.)
Continue reading Italy News Round-Up XIII: #Dante750, Uffizi Exhibition in a Mobster’s Home
Vrooms With a View: Europe’s Most Scenic Drives (includes Val d’Aosta, Piemonte) [The Guardian]
Eat Like a Local in Venice, The Venetian Islands Locals Want to Keep to Themselves, Venice Bacari [The Guardian]
Global Eye: Venice Carnival [National Geographic Intelligent Travel Blog]
Italy’s Sleepy Surprise (Maratea, Basilicata) [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Where Puccini Might Shop in Rome [New York Times]
For a Real Italian Getaway, Follow the Herd (Abruzzo) [The Guardian]
What’s New in Rome and Venice for 2010 and What’s New in Italy, from Museums to Mountain Walks [Rick Steves for the Seattle Times]
Moving House? No, We’re Just Off to Italy to Visit the Folks (road tripping in a motor home) [The Guardian]
Roadtripping the Sicilian Coast [Matador Network]
Caravaggio’s Greatest Hits Draw Big Crowds in Rome [LA Times]
Italy Deserves More Than a Long Weekend (fashion-focused editorial) [New York Times]
Customs and Etiquette in Italy: 15 Things Every Visitor Should Know [Fodor’s Travel Wire]
Giro d’Italia Bicycle Race is Making Its Way to Washington, DC, in 2012 [Washington Post]
And, while I don’t often feature articles from the Italy blogs in the round-up, I had to mention these two articles from Alex Roe, the blogger behind the excellent Blog From Italy:
Ballooning Over Tuscany
Floating Self-Catering in Venice
Photo © Carol Fletcher
This installment of Italy travel articles includes two videos that I thought were worth sharing. Enjoy the round-up! Continue reading Round-up: Italy in Winter, Hidden Salami, Timelapse Tuscany, and more
Here are just a few notable articles on Italy that I’ve come across in the past month or so. I need to get them off my plate, as it were, so I can move on to more tips, hotels, and news that has come my way…
One Fish, Two Fish – This article my Mimi Sheraton in the New Yorker looks at the origins of brodetto, a fish soup that is most prized in Abruzzo and Le Marche. This link is to an abstract, but if you have a New Yorker subscription you can plug in your account info and read it online (if you haven’t already).
Italy Against Itself – Another abstract, this article by regular Italy columnist Alexander Stille looks at recent politics in the country.
An Italy Variety Plate from Gourmet.com – Last month, the food magazine had articles on Christmas pandoro from Verona and Chicken Liver Crostini from Central Italy. This month is Gourmet’s Italian-American issue, which explores recipes inspiration from Lucca to Lecce. Also, it seems that gourmet.com has a more searchable archive now. So, just go to their search engine, type in “Italy,” and you can find articles going all the way back to 1954!
Sometimes I’m not always sure if anyone is actually reading Italofile. As I’ve said, it is a true labor of love. Still I like to imagine that there are regular readers out there who enjoy discovering with me the destinations, hotels, art, schools, churches, etc., that make traveling in Italy so rewarding.
Lo and behold, this weekend I found that I have at least one reader! Maribel wrote in to tell me that last year I missed a New York Times article on “Tortellini Lessons at the Source” in Bologna. Thanks, Maribel! And, with that, I thought I’d provide another round-up of recent articles, from the NYT and elsewhere:
New York Times
In Turin, the Olympic Glow Hasn’t Yet Faded
Monastic Doors Open For Travelers
Milan: Princi (a must-visit bakery)
The Washington Post
2,000 Years After Vesuvius (Stabiae)
In the Eternal City, Walk in a Roman’s Sandals
Rome On Two Gelatos A Day
Good Libations: Bassano del Grappa, Still the One (Veneto)
Los Angeles Times
Art Springs to Life in Gardens Near Rome
Planning Your Trip to Rome’s Gardens
Planning Your Trip to San Marino
Planning Your Trip to Vatican City
Wall Street Journal
Venice Crossings: A Traghetto Tour
In Italy, A Monastery Getaway (Umbria)
The Independent (UK)
City Slicker: A Guide to Genoa
The Hip Hop Guide to Tuscany’s Treasures
The Guardian (UK)
The Insider’s Guide to Cortina d’Ampezzo
Instant Weekend: Florence
Flying Visit: Le Marche Is Olive-Town
Letting Catania Out of the Bag
Going Solo: Venice
Flying Visit to Lake Garda
Sydney Morning Herald
Dining in the Sky the New Way to See Milan
See Ya Later, Gladiator
Floating Through a Dream (Venice)
The Telegraph (UK)
Rome: Eternal Love
Palladio: 500 Years of Architectural Wonders
Sicily: Golf in the Shadow of Mt. Etna
Michael Howard’s Venice
Yes, this is an exhaustive list. But I’m sure I didn’t find everything. So, I’m depending on all you Maribel’s out there to help me out by sending me links to articles and other tips you think would be worthy of posting on Italofile. Thanks again!
Time again to see what Italy travel articles have come out for fall.
New York Times
Cave Crusaders in Matera (examines a new boutique hotel in Matera, Basilicata)
The Telegraph (U.K.)
Tuscany: Driving the Italian Dream
Timed to Perfection (Visiting Italy during the “shoulder season”)
Orvieto: The Perfect Break
Discreet Charm in Northern Italy (Bolzano)
Sydney Morning Herald
Position of Strength (about Italy’s highest fort, Rocca Colascio, in L’Aquila, Abruzzo)
The Vesuvius Keeper (Pompeii)
The Independent (U.K.)
Italy: Spirit of Palladio (Vicenza)
The Guardian (U.K.)
10 Things to See in Venice (about the Venice Biennale of Architecture)
The Boston Globe
Sampling the Motherland (a culinary expedition through Sicily)
Dallas Morning News
Fast Cars, Haute Food in Northern Italy
We hope you’ve had an enjoyable August. Obviously, we took a little time off for rest and relaxation (and a move!), so there’s been little time to fill you in on some of the latest Italy travel news. Here’s a recap:
Some people in Rome think it’s a good idea to create a Disneyland-like theme park outside the city. Could this possibly be a good idea? I can’t imagine Italians wanting to pay money for a bit of Italian-style Americana in their backyard, nor can I see tourists skipping the real Roman tourist attractions to see another Euro-Disney. Yuck.
On August 16, the Bruco contrada won Siena’s Palio Horserace. Congratulations, Caterpillar! Lots of Palio history and trivia here.
There have been two articles on Sardinia’s coast. The New York Times’ Seth Sherwood writes about the Costa Smeralda (Emerald Coast), claiming that An Elite Playground Becomes Less So, while The Guardian ran a feature on Sardinia’s Overlooked Beaches.
And, some art news caught our attention. In Rome, through September 7, looted Roman antiquities that have recently been returned to Italy will be on display at the Palazzo Poli (near the Trevi Fountain). And, beginning on September 7, those interested in Etruscan art and relics should head to Cortona, where Etruscan art from the Hermitage will be on loan to the Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca e della Città di Cortona (MAEC).
We should be getting back on track this week, so stay tuned!
Unlike Greece, Italy isn’t a land of islands. Sure, there’s Sicily, Capri, and the Tuscan Archipelago, which includes Elba. But there is also a small set of islands in the Tyrrhenian Sea between Rome and Naples that, according to Guy Dinmore of The Financial Times, “offer a safer and saner way to travel” for those who want a “sedate alternative to dashing around packed piazzas.”
In “Escape to ‘Alcatraz’,” Dinmore explores the Pontine Islands, which were once used as prison islands by the likes of Emperor Augustus and Mussolini. You can still take a tour of Santa Stefano, the main prison island, which is today uninhabited, or stay on Ventotene to visit its subterranean dwellings and Roman cisterns or go snorkeling. Dinmore also touches on Ponza, the most popular of the Pontines, and Ischia, which is not exactly a Pontine island but typically grouped with Capri and Procida.
Ponza, apparently, is having its day in the sun lately, as German In Style magazine included it among its round-up of party islands. In Style suggests the following Ponza haunts:
Need more convincing? Check out these spectacular photos from the Pontine Islands on Flickr.
Photo by RonnyBas
While browsing the web recently, I happened upon Emmanuelle Jary’s excellent primer on touring the Venice Lagoon on ViaMichelin (full disclosure: I have written for Michelin Travel Guides). But what, I wondered, was a pénichette? Turns out that it is a small barge-like houseboat – just the perfect type of transportation for getting around the city of canals on a mini-tour.
The word “pénichette” is a registered trademark, perhaps owned by the company Locaboat, whose photos are used throughout the Michelin article and which runs several tours of the Venice Lagoon. You can choose one- to two-week excursions, and travel from the base at Chioggia to points such as Treviso, Padova, and the Venetian islands. According to Locaboat, pénichettes are ideal for family or group travel and those “which bear the ‘R’ label are boats which have been updated with the latest low-pollution, high performance equipment.” So, your trip to Venice can be eco-friendly, too.
While you’re out and about, consider following Jary and Michelin’s suggestions for dining out or ordering in (listed at the bottom of the article) from some of the great restaurants in Venice. I’m salivating for the potato risotto and cuttlefish polenta from Do Farai right now…
Photo © Via Michelin
An article today in the New York Times on Swimming Vacations inspired us to see if there were any swim adventure tours in Italy. In fact, one of the companies profiled – Swimtrek (located in London) – offers a one week swim trip around Sardinia’s Maddalena Archipelago. The tour features:
Swimming from Maddalena to Spargi.
The crossings between the three northern islandsof Budelli, Santa Maria, and Razzoli are inspiring.
The swim down Caprera’s eastern shoreline is a great delight, ending at the beautiful beach of Tahiti (named after the South Pacific island!)
Enjoying the abundant flora and fauna as we make tracks across the archipelago.
Savouring the delights of the main town of La Maddalena.
For this season, there are still two dates available – June 14-20 and September 27-October 3. If you’re a swimming enthusiast, this is a wholly unique way to see Italy. As an added bonus, each day you’ll have a chance to work off all that pasta you ate the night before!
Earlier today, we wrote about the travel potential of the region Puglia, this year’s emerging star of Italian tourism. Well, if Puglia is the new Tuscany then some years from now Abruzzo will be the new Puglia.
Richard Norton-Taylor writes about Vasto, a largely “unknown” beach on the Costa Abruzzese for the U.K.’s Guardian. And, believe us – if this spot is still largely unknown to sun-worshipping Brits, then it really must be unspoiled!
The Times UK’s Stephen Bleach had a fun article about romantic getaways in Europe this weekend titled “The Dirty Weekend Guide to Europe.” Bleach argues that a “place of [one’s] own” makes or breaks a romantic holiday and highlights a “dozen of the slushiest, smoochiest and downright sexiest hideaways on the Continent.” No surprise to us, four out of the 12 are in Italy:
And, not a Tuscan villa among any of them. Be aware, however, that romance this luxurious comes at a price!
Hello all. We’ve had a few technical difficulties over the last few weeks, so I hope you’ve stayed with us. In the interim, you may have missed our posts about Jewish Resources in Italy, Scootermania in Sicily, and Tuscan Wine Picks.
Now, it seems we have cured our hiccups and are ready to keep providing you with Italy travel tips. While we were gone, travel site Gridskipper ran a contest on Dream Destinations and many readers wrote in about Rome. Two Rome dream trips are in the finals; both entries are creative and provide useful tips for sightseeing, wining and dining, and exploring the Eternal City. Check out Roman Holiday and Rome Poem. Gridskipper also ran a piece about Secret Trastevere last month. By the way, yours truly entered a Gridskipper contest last year and qualified as a finalist with this entry about seeing Rome on $100.
Other Rome tips that have come our way recently are from A Luxury Travel Blog, which ran a piece on the Hassler Hotel’s Roman Skyline Package and from the New York Times, which has a feature on Rome at Night.
So, if you’re going to Rome this summer, here are plenty of suggestions. And there’s more to come, we’re sure…
While it’s hardly shocking for Americans – we’ve been eating Italian food cooked by Mexicans and Salvadorans for years – Italy is now grappling with the conundrum that many of the cooks in the country’s top-rated restaurants are non-Italians. Ian Fisher’s article today in the New York Times points out that Antico Forno Roscioli, which recently won accolades from Gambero Rosso (equivalent to Michelin in Italy) for Rome’s best carbonara, has a chef from Tunisia. Further, L’Arcangelo, which came in second in the competition, has a head chef from India.
Is this really a big deal? Some of the chefs cited in Fisher’s piece – from Jordan, China, etc. – noted that many customers turned tail at the sight of a non-Italian behind the counter or in an apron. But, I have to agree with the owner of Sabatini in Trastevere that as long as the right training is there, nothing should change. It’s just part of a globalizing world. What do you think?
When you go about listing in a guidebook all the myriad things there are to do in Rome, the city’s house museums, as the New York Times points out, rarely make the cut. In the Unofficial Guide to Central Italy, we do make mention of the art gallery in Palazzo Colonna, which includes Annibale Carracci’s Bean Eater, the Galleria Doria Pamphilj, with Velazquez’s portrait of Innocent X, and the Keats-Shelley Memorial House, the little pink home next to the Spanish Steps where John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley once lived.
The Times piece is a nice supplement to the Unofficial Guide. In addition to the galleries mentioned above, Times’ writer Andrew Ferren profiles Palazzo Spada, Palazzo Corsini, Palazzo Barberini, and The Napoleonic Museum. Note that the Spada, Corsini, and Barberini galleries are managed under the Galleria Borghese umbrella. Ferren also writes about Palazzo Altemps, now part of the National Roman Museum, a complex that got the full update treatment in the latest edition of the UGCI.
Here are some of the Italy travel articles you may have missed over the past few months.
New York Times
Prato, Italy: In Tuscany, the Revealing of a Forbidden Love
Bread-Making and Truffle-Hunting in Italy (Piemonte; actually a short review of two tours)
Bologna, Italy: Finding New Life in the Arts
La Dolce Vita, Both Day and Night (Readers Picks in Rome)
The Washington Post
They Got Game. In Several Languages. (About European (and Italian) basketball leagues)
The Daily Telegraph (UK)
Italy: An Insider’s Guide (a list of the 30 best things in Italy; a bit similar to our recent posts “20 Things We Love About Italy” parts 1 and 2.)
The Guardian (UK)
Eternal Attraction (Rome)
Big City Bites: Parma
Los Angeles Times
20 Ways to Take Back the 20% Our Dollar Lost to the Euro (great advice from Rick Steves; not specific to Italy, but there are several Italy tips)
Bend Weekly (Oregon)
Serene Pleasures of the Veneto (via Copley News Service)
Sydney Morning Herald
Life in Ruins (Siracusa, Sicily)
A Cloister Walk with Thee (Assisi)
New Zealand Herald
Venice Calls – and to Hell with Explanations (a sort of Eat, Pray, Love piece on traveling alone to Italy)
Have you ever rented a villa and arrived to find out that linens were not provided? Or, have you ever rented a rustic country cottage only to find out that it was impossible to childproof? Well, these and many other mistakes can befall first-time villa renters. Luckily, Travel + Leisure’s February issue features a User’s Guide to Renting Villas.
While the article focuses largely on villa rentals in the Caribbean, its general tips are helpful for every destination. T+L has also listed the “best” villa agency in Italy (called, appropriately, thebestinitaly.com). But, if you can’t afford $43,000 per week on your vacation, consider these other villa rental agencies:
–Wimco.com, has properties in Tuscany, on the Amalfi Coast, and in Sicily (“weekly rates on the new villa inventory in Tuscany start at $3,490”)
–Homebaseabroad.com, has private home rentals in Tuscany, Umbria, and Lake Como
–Italian Vacation Villas, has rentals in Tuscany, Umbria, Venice and the Veneto, and “by the seaside”